Chef Haruka Katayanagi’s first experience with steak was one he would never forget.  

The precise details of it have eroded with age. For instance, he doesn’t remember precisely what cut it was — a thicker cut, possibly a sirloin — but his father had seasoned it immaculately Japanese-style, with butter and soy sauce. It was quite unlike anything he had ever eaten before.   

In his words, it was “exquisite”; a rare treat for the young chef that would stick with him for a very long time.   

This memory would surface again during his culinary training many years later, when he discovered wagyu beef, and realized the sheer amount of depth that it held as an ingredient. He then dedicated the rest of his career to exploring the possibilities of wagyu beef, and introducing its myriad gustatory possibilities to as many people as possible.  

It is this concept that drives his Michelin-starred wagyu kaiseki restaurant Oniku Karyu (formerly Ryuryokukako Shinmenmoku) in Ginza. More than 15 years after starting his restaurant in Ningyocho, Chef Katayanagi continues to take his place behind the kitchen counter to spread the gospel of the wagyu.   

The restaurant’s name is taken from a Zen saying about beauty, and Chef Katayanagi is fully committed to showing the true beauty of wagyu beef: he goes every day to the butcher to personally select cuts of A4- and A5-grade kuroge wagyu from the finest suppliers all over Japan, presenting them in kaiseki-style course menus that include luxurious seasonal ingredients, ranging from vegetables to seafood. Even the tableware is exquisite, chosen specifically to enhance the visual aspect of the dining experience by highlighting each ingredient’s color.  

And how better to enjoy the richness of wagyu than with a glass of wine or sake, chosen by Chef Katayanagi himself? A trained sommelier, he also handpicks the spirits served at his restaurant, expertly pairing them with the dishes in each course menu.   

To further their own appreciation for wagyu beef, guests have the option of sitting at the counter to watch how Chef Katayanagi and his chefs transform the exquisite meat into dishes to savor. Alternatively, separated dining rooms for parties of up to eight are also available, for those looking for a more private dining experience.  Michelin Guide: 2017 - 1 Michelin Star