To most, a quintessential izakaya food like yakitori — charcoal-grilled chicken on skewers — and wine might make for strange bedfellows. But the immense popularity of Chef Koichi Inoue’s brainchild, Yakitori Ginza I (pronounced “ee”), proves that in actuality, the two are a winning combination.   

Having fallen in love with yakitori from a young age, Chef Inoue moved to Tokyo from his native Yamagata Prefecture to master the art of yakitori when he was 25. After training at various yakitori restaurants around Tokyo, 2012 saw him open his own restaurant in Roppongi, titled Yakitori Roppongi I. Its explosive success led to him opening Yakitori Ginza I in Ginza just six years later.   

At both of his restaurants, the dish most closely associated with Chef Inoue has been his own invention, the chicken tsukune mincemeat skewer with foie gras. The foie gras’ fat melts seamlessly into the chicken, suffusing it with a rich aroma and flavor that fills the mouth when bitten into. Paired with a glass of Gevrey-Chambertin Pinot Noir, it’s the best possible example of how Chef Inoue elevates the humble yakitori skewer.   

Unusually for a yakitori chef, Chef Inoue also makes ample use of seasonal vegetables when devising his menus, so as to give his guests a sense of the seasons when dining at his restaurant. This doesn’t just take the form of skewers, but also in homemade salad dressings and sauces. A meal at Yakitori Ginza I is one that opens the mind — not just one’s own, but Chef Inoue’s as well, allowing his guests a glimpse into the thought process that goes into redefining this traditional culinary form.